Yotam Ottolenghi on the evolution of London restaurants

As soaring costs threaten his industry, the chef looks at how his favourite restaurateurs are innovating – plus two recipes inspired by London’s culinary scene

What does it feel like to eat out in London these days? And what do people want? I’ve been asking myself these questions since closing our restaurant Rovi for renovations this summer, taking the opportunity to rethink some of the things we do.

It has become clear to me that the restaurant world I’ve known for decades is radically changing through a combination of factors: people’s working patterns, health obsessions, the falling out of love with alcohol and the falling in love with pastries and bread, but, predominantly, the affordability of it all.