‘Near restaurant-quality’: the best supermarket margherita pizzas, tasted and rated

It’s a classic fridge standby, but which supermarket tomato-and-cheese pizza delivers quality and flavour, and which has a cardboard-like aftertaste?

• ‘Glass chopping boards should be illegal’: how to look after your kitchen knives

‘Kor-nee-CHO-nay,” my friend Matt Comley exclaims, and repeats several times as he pads out some pizza dough with his fingers and palm to make what is known in Naples as the cornicione. That is, the perfect puffy outer edge of a pizza.

Matt is the co-founder of School of Dough, a wonderful initiative that teaches children in some of Cornwall’s least prosperous communities how to cook; he also runs a stall called Salt Yard Pizza at the Boathouse on Newquay harbour. His pizza is some of the best in the country, not just because he’s mastered traditional techniques, but because he grows his own tomatoes and basil, and even rears his own mangalitza pigs to turn into charcuterie.